Marseille: Either You Adore Her or You Part ways
Fluctuating Tides: Parisians Leaving Marseille Amidst Cultural Challenges
A growing number of Parisians have migrated to the vibrant Canebière in recent years, yet many find their assumed new home falling short of expectations, leading to a reverse migration back to Paris. Piecing together their testimonies, an intricate portrait of unfulfilled aspirations and cultural dissonance emerges.
© Sylvain Rostaing by Anne Vidalie, Head of Service (Investigation and Long Formats)
In the bustling bars of Plaine and Endoume, Parisian expats once reveled in shared camaraderie. However, these days, the talk centers around the exodus of "those who gave up, emotionally drained after attempted attempts at adapting to the local culture," as Esther Teillard, author of the book "Carnes," puts it.
Teillard chronicles the disappointments experienced by the newcomers—verbal aggression, access issues to shops and good addresses closing to newcomers, different work ethics, and perceived incivility and uncleanliness.
Wrenching Departures
Official figures from the PopFlux application show a spike in the relocation of 1,300 households from Paris to the Old Port between 2020 and 2023, a trend that includes both professionals and those drawn by the allure of the coastal city. Exact numbers of those deciding to return to Paris after a stint in Marseille remain elusive, yet the testimonies tell a story of disillusionment, disenchantment, and heavy-hearted departures.
"Leaving Marseille feels like ending a tumultuous relationship," shares Camille, a 47-year-old plastic artist who relocated to Chartreux in 2018, where a house with a veranda, garden, and garage cost a fraction of the price of a 35-square-meter apartment in Paris. Nevertheless, she can no longer bear the city's dismal living conditions. She laments the heaps of garbage littering the narrow, congested sidewalks, the urban sprawl necessitating a car, the lack of greenery, deteriorating infrastructure, and the invading graffiti on walls and storefronts.
The Marseille Mantra
"I've discovered a city divided along social lines, with little mixing of classes," says Camille, reflecting on her experiences in the northeastern neighborhoods. Life in the southern districts is marked by private streets and metal gates secured with cameras. Whereas in Paris, intergenerational and professional encounters take place in local bars, Camille observes that such opportunities are less prevalent in Marseille.
Weary of the ubiquitous "It's Marseille, baby" mantra, Camille relocated to Paris with her 9-year-old daughter, after market demand forced her to sell her beloved Chartreux abode. Far from alone in her experiences, she says many Parisian friends have made similar decisions.
Pricey Taxes and Underfunded Services
In addition to Camille, Pierre, a native architect who moved for professional reasons rather than by choice, also shares the view that the property tax rates are excessively high in Marseille. He contends that despite the steep taxes, the quality of services remains disappointing, offering no proper public transportation, dirty streets, broken infrastructure, and failing schools with budgetary concerns hindering arts and athletics programs.
Rain, Rain, Go Away
Maylis Puyfaucher, a 48-year-old founder of a creative leisure company, lasted only a year in Marseille before deciding to move to Aix-en-Provence for better access to foreign-language films. When the sun was shining, she enjoyed swimming at lunchtime in the Fausse-Monnaie cove and picnicking in the calanques of Sormiou or Sugiton. On rainy days, however, she found it exasperating that everything seemed to come to a halt.
These observed issues have not gone unnoticed. Writer Hadrien Bels, author of the book "Cinq dans tes yeux," openly uses the taboo word "colonization" to describe the shift in the city's demographics. He acknowledges that the influx of newcomers brings economic resources, but laments the impact on Marseille's distinct cultural identity—a style of dress and mannerisms that he believes has been homogenized. For their part, the newcomers face their fair share of hostility, as some Parisians experience a frosty reception and encounters with negative stereotypes.
Such experiences have led many to view Marseille as a love-hate city: half-charming, half-hostile. Despite the allure, the unique blend of pleasures and challenges seems to claim an emotional toll on some, pushing them back toward the City of Light.
- Disappointed with the perceived cultural dissonance and unfulfilled expectations, some Parisians who relocated to Marseille have turned to home-and-garden projects as a means to adapt and improve their living conditions, transforming former industrial buildings into vibrant homes filled with a unique Parisian touch.
- In an attempt to preserve the unique lifestyle of Marseille, local authorities have supported home-and-garden initiatives as a way to entice the growing number of Parisian expats, while also diversifying the city's culture through trade and other social interactions, bridging the gap between the newcomers and the established residents.
