"Indian Textile Masterpieces in Europe's Limelight: Book Highlights Indian Trade Textiles"
A new book titled "When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Europe" has recently been published by Niyogi Books, offering readers an in-depth exploration of the impact Indian handcrafted textiles had on European fabric production during the 17th and 18th centuries.
Authored by Dutch chronicler Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis, the book delves into the rich history of 30 unique textile items from the TAPI Collection and similar pieces in galleries worldwide. TAPI, a private collection in Surat, is a testament to India's vibrant textile and art heritage.
The book features seldom-seen images from galleries and private collections, showcasing delicately hand-drawn dye-painted cotton chintzes made in the Coromandel Coast and stitched palampores and garment items made in Gujarat and the Deccan. These intricate textiles, produced by skilled artisans, were admired for their sophisticated designs, fine craftsmanship, and quality of muslin and cotton.
According to Trisha De Niyogi, director and COO of Niyogi Books, the book is an important addition to fabric history as it explores how Indian handcrafted fabrics, such as dye-painted chintzes and stitched palampores, made their way to Europe and inspired European fabric production.
The influence occurred through various channels and effects. Indian chintzes—cotton textiles with colorful, hand-painted or block-printed floral and figurative designs—captivated European tastes. European manufacturers began to attempt replicating these patterns and fabric types to supply growing consumer demand as Indian imports rose in popularity.
This led to the development of local textile printing and dyeing techniques in countries like Britain and France. However, due to the dominance of Indian textiles, Britain enacted restrictive legislation such as the Calico Acts (1701, 1721) banning the import of most printed cottons from India. These laws aimed to curb Indian fabric influence and stimulate the growth of mechanized textile industries in Europe.
While Indian textiles continued to influence European design sensibilities, the increasing industrialization of fabric production in Europe, alongside protectionist laws, eventually led to a decline in India’s textile export dominance. European factories developed mechanized printing and weaving methods modeled partly on the decorative styles and quality standards established by Indian craftsmen but adapted for mass production.
Indian motifs and techniques, especially the vibrant floral patterns and resist-dye styles seen in chintzes and palampores, became integrated into European decorative arts and textiles, evident in fabric styles produced in France and Britain during the 18th century.
The author, Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis, met Praful and Shilpa Shah, founders of the TAPI Collection, at a textile fair in London around twenty years ago. The collection, named after the River Tapi of Surat as a tribute to the city, is a significant representation of India's rich textile and art heritage.
"When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Europe" is now available for sale across offline and online shops. This visual delight offers excellent examples of handcrafted Indian fabrics and embroidery from the TAPI Collection, providing readers with a unique insight into the history of Indian textiles and their global influence.
- The book "When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Europe" also discusses the influence of Indian fashion-and-beauty, particularly hand-drawn dye-painted cotton chintzes and intricate stitched palampores, on European lifestyle during the 17th and 18th centuries.
- As a supplementary read for those interested in home-and-garden decor, "When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Europe" showcases various Indian textiles, including the vibrant floral patterns and resist-dye styles seen in chintzes and palampores, which significantly impacted European decorative arts and textiles in the 18th century.
