Exploring Glasgow: Kirsty Wark's Personal Perspective on Her Beloved City
Chatting About Charming Glasgow: A Personal Journey Through Time
Glasgow, back when I was a kid, seemed like a magical, mysterious place, towering with colossal buildings shrouded in the soot of the bustling industrial city. The smell of factories lingered, and the streets teemed with people, many of them puffing away on cigarettes, my pops among them - he was a lawyer commuting to the city by train. We lived 20 miles away in Kilmarnock, home of Massey Ferguson tractors, Johnnie Walker whisky, and the first publication of Robert Burns poetry. But trips to Glasgow were always thrilling.
Often, I would stay with my granny. As a treat, we'd go to the cartoon cinema in Renfield Street, have afternoon tea on Byres Road, or visit the Kelvingrove Art Gallery. I remember walking with her along the long balcony overlooking the central hall, only to come face-to-face with Dali's Christ of St John of the Cross. I was just eight then, and the painting terrified me. It's a place I still love to visit.
As a student, I found my love for architecture while meandering the city, marveling at buildings that mixed Italianate, French, Dutch, and Egyptian styles, each one unique and quintessentially Glasgow. Every corner boasted a striking detail: a stained-glass window depicting a ship, an intricately carved sandstone scroll, or an awe-inspiring gargoyle. It's said that New York's planners drew inspiration from Glasgow, and the resemblance still strikes me.
I pick up a container of Eusebi's 'Yesterday's lasagne' after a long day at work.
Glasgow has always been stylish. I recently finished a two-part documentary on Scottish fashion, starting in 1955 - the year I was born. Christian Dior held his first spring/summer fashion show in the city that year. Another modern combination of Scotland and France can be seen in La Fetiche, born from the minds of April Crichton and Orély Forestier who met while working at Sonia Rykiel in Paris. They've created a playful clothing brand, collaborating with local and French manufacturers. I often pop into their old-school atelier in the Gorbals, on the south bank of the River Clyde.
I enjoy stopping outside Timorous Beasties - their windows are a riot of psychedelic fabrics teeming with dazzling insects, a whimsical take on toile de Jouy. Kate Bush is a fan, as am I. Further into the West End, I reach The University Café, a beloved ice-cream parlor that has been in the Verrecchia family for four generations. I love to imagine my parents coming here in the '40s while courting or, as my mom would say, "doing a line." Eusebi's is another favorite stop, where I grab their famous "Yesterday's Lasagne" after a long day.
In the '70s, demolitions threatened the city. But now we're reimagining spaces. One such place is Cottiers, a theater, restaurant, and bar in a former Victorian church named after the artist Daniel Cottier. It still feels as if he walks its halls. As often as not, a drink turns into a meal - their French onion soup is unmissable.
One of the best things about living in an old city is the treasures to be found at auction, and Great Western Auctions is one of my regular haunts. I love the thrill of the chase for a piece of fine china, and the camaraderie is infectious. Back home, paintings by Scottish artists that I've bid for successfully adorn our walls, even a couple by minor colorists. I'm always on the lookout for crystal glasses and the perfect trifle bowl in the West End's charity shops.
Wandering back from the auction, it's worth stopping at Ga Ga on Dumbarton Road. This south Asian establishment is run by Malaysian-Scottish chef Julie Lin, specializing in sea bream with chilli coconut butter and sichuan and garlic aubergine. A nightcap on the way home can be found at Ubiquitous Chip, a Glasgow institution. The walls are decorated with the late, great Alasdair Gray's artwork, and I always end my evening with a malt - maybe a Highland Park or an Arran.
Kirsty Wark is the presenter of BBC Radio 4's Front Row and The Reunion.
Embracing Glasgow: A Guide to the City's Treasures
Bars, Cafés & Restaurants
Cottiers cottiers.comEusebi Deli eusebideli.comGa Ga Glasgow gagaglasgow.comUbiquitous Chip ubiquitouschip.co.ukThe University Café 87 Byres Rd, G11 5HN
Shopping
Great Western Auctions greatwesternauctions.comLa Fetiche lafetiche.comTimorous Beasties timorousbeasties.com
Things to Do
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum glasgowlife.org.uk
Hidden behind the Smokestacks: Exploring Glasgow's Rich History
Glasgow's evolution from a medieval religious center to a bustling modern metropolis is reflected in its diverse architecture, cultural institutions, and design scene. Here's a glimpse into the city's heritage:
Architectural Marvels
From Gothic grandeur to modernist innovation, Glasgow stands as a testament to architectural evolution:- Glasgow Cathedral: Originated in the 6th century, the Cathedral's later Gothic additions include the unique Corona, a rose window designed by Nicholas Cubitt (1896)[1].- Glasgow University's Gymnasium (Butler Building): Constructed in 1878, this Neo-Gothic building features an intricate stained-glass window designed by Daniel Cottier - a masterpiece of the Glasgow Style[5].- Hutcheson's Trust Building: A blend of Greek Revival and French Renaissance styles, this architectural marvel is notable for its distinctive façade and striking St Teresa statue[1].
Artistic Landmarks
The Glasgow Style
Inspired by the Arts & Crafts movement, Charles Rennie Mackintosh and his partners, Margaret Macdonald and Frances Macdonald, defined the Glasgow Style, characterized by an emphasis on organic forms, asymmetry, and simplified geometric patterns[6].- House for an Art Lover: Originally designed as an illustration of Mackintosh's work for a competition in 1901, the house was built in 1996 and is now a popular tourist attraction[1].- The Willow Tea Rooms: Mackintosh's iconic tea rooms, characterized by flowing line patterns and a muted color palette, are must-visit destinations for those appreciating the Glasgow Style[6].
Cultural Hubs
The People's Palace
As a social history museum, The People's Palace showcases Glasgow's working-class history, displaying artifacts related to daily life, employment, education, and leisure[5].
The Glasgow School of Art
Though fire-damaged, the Glasgow School of Art continues to be crucial to the city's cultural identity. Charles Rennie Mackintosh's iconic Art Nouveau masterpiece serves as a symbol of Glasgow's rich artistic heritage[5].
[1] Glasgow Life. (n.d.). The Glasgow Story: Discover Glasgow Past. Retrieved from https://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/heritage-and-culture/the-glasgow-story
[2] Glasgow's West End. (n.d.). Glasgow's West End. Retrieved from https://www.glasgowswestend.com/
[3] University of Glasgow. (n.d.). The University of Glasgow: Collections. Retrieved from https://www.gla.ac.uk/myglasgow/lifeoncampus/archivescollections/collections/
[4] Renfrewshire Leisure. (n.d.). Mackintosh at the Willow: The Story. Retrieved from https://www.renfrewshireleisure.com/whats-on/mackintosh-at-the-willow-the-story-p249002
[5] Glasgow's West End. (n.d.). Top 10 Things to Do in Glasgow's West End. Retrieved from https://www.glasgowswestend.com/things-to-do/top-10-things-to-do-in-glasgows-west-end-p126823
[6] Charles Rennie Mackintosh and The Glasgow Style. (n.d.). Charles Rennie Mackintosh and The Glasgow Style. Retrieved from https://www.mackintosh.info/
- Kirsty Wark, an expert on Scottish culture, often visits Ubiquitous Chip, a Glasgow institution known for its artwork by the late Alasdair Gray, to end her evening with a malt drink.
- Glasgow's rich historical legacy can be seen in architectural marvels like the Glasgow Cathedral, with its unique Corona rose window designed by Nicholas Cubitt, and the Hutcheson's Trust Building, a blend of Greek Revival and French Renaissance styles.
- The Glasgow School of Art, an important cultural hub, stands as a symbol of Glasgow's artistic heritage, despite fire damage, and reflects the city's evolution from a religious center to a modern metropolis.
- Fashion enthusiasts could find delight in La Fetiche, a playful clothing brand born from the minds of April Crichton and Orély Forestier, reminiscent of the modern combination of Scotland and France.
- In the food and drink sphere, Eusebi's Deli is a favorite spot for Kirsty Wark to pick up a container of 'Yesterday's lasagne' after a long day at work, while the South Asian establishment Ga Ga Glasgow offers dishes like sea bream with chilli coconut butter and sichuan and garlic aubergine.
